Shelter

Aperture:f/2.6
Focal Length:4.5mm
ISO:1000
Shutter:1/4 sec
Camera:DSC-W650

here are PDF plans for this shelter to frame it out. Roofing & siding and detailing the inside are not covered.

Shelter Sheet 1 Isometric

Shelter Sheet 2 Base Plan

Shelter Sheet 3 Left Side Elevations

Shelter Sheet 4 Right Side Elevations

Shelter Sheet 5 Roof Beam & Back Wall

Shelter Sheet 6 Siding Plan

I was going to sell these but don’t think there is much demand so I’m putting them up here for free. Like all free stuff, there is a reason it’s not free…. LOL. They are 98% accurate. I built a 3D model in CAD, which is 100% accurate. the text on the drawings is…. text on a drawing. i.e. there maybe some typos. So, go on the pictures and not the words.

This is a tutorial to go with my shelter plans. The plans are drawn at 1:10 scale using standard Midewest brand basswood strips. These are available in art and hobby stores and the plans are real scale so you can build right on top of the drawings.

Once you have the plans, read through them, get the material list & get your wood. Glue is a matter of personal preference. I like to use Alien’s tacky glue which you can get in the craft section of Walmart. I also use CA (superglue) to “tack” things in place real quick, CA Kicker. Titebond is another popular glue. I personally don’t care for gurilla glue because it expands as it sets. I use shoe goo a lot too.

As far as tools, a hobby knife with extra blades, a razor saw & miter box. Some clamps for holding pieces together as the glue dries. Squares will be helpful, mini machinest squares are one of my favorite tools. T pins, sandpaper, sanding blocks and masking tape are always helpful. Beyond that, you can get as fancy as you like with tools. The Tiki lights were done with a Dremel tool which is a pretty handy tool but not 100% neccessary.

Before you start gluing is a good time to think about stain and/or paint. If you plan to use a dark stain, it’s best to apply that before gluing. the stain won’t penetrate where glue has gotten into the wood. Natural or light stains aren’t as noticeable and of course if you are painting, it doesn’t matter. I stained with natral stain at various intervals and then stained my siding with a darker stain prior to gluing. then coated everything with polyurethane.

First, The base needs to be built. I’ve oriented the wood to minimize waste with the 24″ basswood strips. But starting with the basic framework, you can measure and cut the pieces on top of the drawing and then glue them using CA (super glue) or a wood glue of choice. I like Alien’s tacky glue. Make sure the base is square and flat and remains so while the glue dries. Any sloppy work here will require more effort down the road.

The legs can be cut later to conform to an uneven surface or they can be shortened right away or you can build steps. I plan to shorten mine later. The tops of the posts are notched to fit flush with the base frame.

Again, when the posts are glued to the base, make sure all is square.

Next is the planking. Cut pieces carefully. I designed it so that a 24″ piece could be cut in half. Unlike a real 2×4 though, there is no extra. So… This is a good time to pick your best side as the front of the shelter and carefully line the planks up perfectly on this side. If they are a little off in the back, that’s ok, you will put a wall base plate over that and cover it up.

The finished deck planking:

The backwall is a good place to start going vertical. it’s easy & straigh forward and having it in place first will help position the left and right walls.

Again, build it right on top of the plans. Use pins and/or tape to hold it in place as the glue dries.

After it’s dry, you can glue it to the back of the base structure. Use clamps and squares to get it and keep it square while the glue dries.

Now the left and right walls. These get a little more complicated because of the notches at the top to accomondate the roof trusses.

Again, build on top of the plans, start with the bottom piece and then add the vertical studs. Cut alll the pieces first, lay them out on the plan and test fit everything before gluing. The roof trusses are there for test fitting and are not to be glued at this time. When cutting the trusses, match the plan drawings as close as possible. Mistakes in angles on the roof trusses will be exagerated later on.

Cutting the notches on the tops of the studs is not hard but it’s easy to make a mistake. As you are looking at the plans, the roof truss that attaches to the notched studs is on top. Look at the isometric drawing to make sure all your angles are correct.  the notches are cut with a razor saw, notched out with a hobby knife and then cleaned up with sandpaper. test fit each piece with the roof truss before gluing.

Use pins to keep things in place as you begin to glue pieces together. I prefered CA at this stage.

Once the walls are finished, glue them to the base. I would recommend not glueing them to the back wall at this time. once the roof beams are in place and the outer trusses glued to the left and right wall studs, then you can go back with fast CA and “wick” some CA into that joint.

Once the walls are in place. Use Sheet 3 to mark the locations of the roof trusses on the center roof beam and front roof beam before you glue those beams into place.

Next use the two roof trusses cut for test fitting above and the marked beams and glue them in place.

Close up of the  Truss/stud/beam joints:

Next, cut the additional roof trusses. The more precise you make the roof truss cuts, the fewer problems you will have in the next step.

Next, glue the roof trusses in place. The marks will help getting the spacing to look right. Unless you are really good, your angles won’t be perfect. Focus less on getting the joints to but up perfectly and more on getting a nice even set of trusses at the roof line. You do this by eye. This is where it will look off, not in the joints which will be covered up so focus on that.

Once you have the framing done, it’s a good point to think about siding.

I’ve created the plans to use board and batten siding but really this is a good time to deviate from the plans if you want to make something a little different but I will keep going as if you’re doing board & batten.

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